Discover North Bali's Hidden Paradise: Your Complete Guide to Lovina and Munduk (Part 1)

Padi fields in Mayong

Seasoned travelers often speak wistfully of Bali 30 years ago—a time when Kuta was filled with surfers and adventurers, and Ubud drew creatives seeking inspiration. Today, that rustic charm has been replaced by traffic-clogged streets and villa walls that block out the island's natural beauty. But don't despair: the idyllic Bali still exists, hidden away in the serene mountains and pristine coastlines of North Bali.

Spending time in North Bali is a great way to escape the bustling atmosphere of the island, offering travelers a chance to experience authentic Indonesian culture without the overwhelming crowds of the south.

This comprehensive guide covers a 5-day journey through two of North Bali's most enchanting destinations: Lovina's tranquil black sand beaches and Munduk's misty mountain waterfalls. These small towns are perfect for discerning travelers who crave mornings filled with exploration and evenings filled with relaxation.

Getting to North Bali: Transportation Made Simple

The peaceful nature of North Bali stems partly from its limited transport options, but with proper planning, getting there is straightforward. Both Lovina and Munduk are approximately three hours from Denpasar's Ngurah Rai International Airport, Bali's only international gateway.

Your Transportation Options:

Private Driver (Recommended): Costing $40-60 USD per car it’s the most fuss-free option for airport pickup

Car Rental: Available at Bali airport. Roads in north Bali are narrow but well-paved on main routes. Drive slowly and enjoy the scenic mountain routes

Scooter Rental: Budget-friendly option popular in southern Bali. Riding through central Bali involves navigating steep, twisty mountain roads. Recommended only for experienced riders.

Getting Around Locally

In Lovina: Most attractions are within walking distance of Lovina Beach. The area is served by Grab and GoJek ride-hailing services, and most tour operators offer hotel pickups.

Between Lovina and Munduk: Daily shuttles operate between the towns ($10-12 USD per person one-way), bookable through travel agencies on the Main Street. Surprisingly, Grab also operates this route (around $13 USD), though ride-hailing services cannot pick you up within Munduk due to local driver resistance.

In Munduk: Walking is possible for nearby waterfalls and rice fields. For distant attractions, hire a local driver for $40-50 USD per day. There are shops renting scooters for about USD5-7 per day. 

Day 0: Arrival in Lovina Beach

Destination: Lovina, North Bali's coastal gem

Lovina sits 20 minutes west of Singaraja, Bali's former administrative capital. This peaceful beach town centers around Lovina Beach, where black volcanic sand meets the calm waters of the Bali Sea. Unlike the crowded beaches of South Bali, Lovina offers a tranquil introduction to North Bali's slower pace.

What to Do on Arrival Day:

• Settle into your accommodation near Lovina Beach for easy access to tours and restaurants

• Explore the local area along Jalan Mawar, where numerous tour agencies can help plan your upcoming adventures

• Book tours for the following days while rates are fresh in your mind

Where to Eat in Lovina

• Global Village Foundation Cafe: Serves diverse cuisine with a social mission

• Dapoer Koe's Kitchen: Located 16 minutes east and uphill from Main Street, offering authentic local flavors

Day 1: Dolphins at Dawn and Waterfall Escapes

Morning: Sunrise Dolphin Watching

Every morning, a flotilla of converted fishing boats ventures into the Bali Sea, carrying tourists to witness dolphins in their natural habitat. This experience offers two options: surface viewing or an immersive snorkeling encounter where you hold onto a bamboo pole while the boat moves forward, with dolphins swimming beside you. 

Practical Information:

• Cost: $30-60 USD (varies by season and bargaining skills)

• Duration: Returns by mid-morning or lunchtime

• Booking: Available through tour agencies, street vendors, or your accommodation

Important Considerations: These tours can disturb dolphins with boat noise and human activity. Research operators beforehand and prioritize those with sustainable practices. Always ensure life jackets are provided and check weather conditions.

Afternoon: Aling-Aling Waterfall

After your dolphin adventure, head to Air Terjun Aling-Aling, a spectacular vertical waterfall accessed through a well-maintained park. Unlike overcrowded sites near Ubud, this waterfall offers intimate encounters with nature. 

Ticket Options:

• Basic entry: IDR 20,000 ($1.30 USD) for walking access (no swimming)

• Adventure packages: $10-35 USD including swimming, cliff jumping, and waterfall sliding with a guide

Important: The main Aling-Aling waterfall is a sacred site where swimming is prohibited for all visitors. Adventure activities take place at smaller, but still impressive, downstream falls.

Getting There: Travel east from Lovina along the main road, then turn south through rice fields. Accessible by scooter, Grab, or local driver negotiation.

Day 2: Underwater Paradise at Menjangan Island

West Bali National Park represents Bali's only protected nature reserve, where development is limited and nature conservation takes priority. The waters around Menjangan Island benefit from strict protections against destructive fishing practices like dynamite fishing and trawling.

Why is diving here special? Firstly, it’s truly an ideal dive spot for beginners. The absolute calm of the waters stands in stark contrast to the strong currents around Nusa Penida. The water temperature is also warm and comfortable. Secondly, although we did not observe any particularly notable creatures other than turtles and a small shark, the corals around Menjangan island were in pristine condition. The corals started at around 5m depth, allowing you to witness their full colours, and were dotted with majestic fan corals. 

 We dove with Arrows Scuba, based in Lovina. The dive master was solid and equipment was in good condition. They did a pickup from our homestay and catered a lunch. They offer dives at Amed in the east(wreck diving), Pulau Menjangan in the west, both 1.5 hours drive and a boat ride from Lovina. There is also muck diving to be had nearer at Lovina pier, for those interested in macro and creatures of the smaller variety. 

Alternative Base Locations

While Lovina offers central accessibility, consider these alternatives for longer trips:

• Amed: Closer to wreck diving sites

• Pemuteran: Nearest to Menjangan Island and West Bali National Park

This concludes Part 1 of our North Bali adventure. In Part 2, we'll journey into the misty mountains of Munduk, explore hidden waterfalls, experience authentic rice farming culture, and discover the volcanic lakes that inspired local legends. [Read Part 2 →]

Quick Planning Tips:

Best time to visit: Dry season (April-October), though expect occasional rain showers

What to pack: Raincoat, comfortable walking shoes, reef-safe sunscreen

Budget: Mid-range travelers can expect $50-80 USD per day including accommodation, meals, and activities

Duration: Minimum 5 days recommended for both destinations